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Tutorial · Beginner9 min read

Your first pattern on a maskless tool

Running your first pattern on a maskless lithography tool means turning a drawing into a patterned resist film in five steps — choose a resist, coat it onto your substrate, expose your design directly (no photomask), develop, and inspect. This walkthrough explains what each step is doing and where to find the exact numbers, so a first run is methodical rather than mysterious.

This is a qualitative guide: it explains the *why* of each step and points you to the numbers, rather than quoting temperatures or doses that depend entirely on the resist you pick. Every specific value lives on a datasheet-cited recipe page, and the principle behind each process step is covered in more depth in the processing guidelines. New to the vocabulary? The photolithography glossary defines every term used below.

A maskless tool changes exactly one step of the classic flow: exposure. Instead of shining light through a physical photomask, it writes your design directly onto the resist, so there is no mask to order, wait for, or pay for — you iterate the same day. Everything before and after exposure is ordinary photolithography.

Choose a resist

1 · Choose a resist

Start by picking a photoresist that matches the job, because that single choice sets almost everything downstream — how thick a film you can coat, what developer you need, and whether the sidewall comes out straight or undercut. Rather than guess, narrow the recipe library with its filters, in this order: thickness (the film your process actually needs), application (etch mask, lift-off, electroplating, MEMS structural, grayscale, and so on), then tone.

If you want to understand the families before you filter, each resist class has its own explainer: DNQ–novolak positive resists are the general-purpose workhorse for etch masking; image-reversal resists and lift-off underlayers give the undercut profile that lift-off needs; epoxy negative resists such as SU-8 build thick, high-aspect-ratio structures; and chemically amplified resists trade sensitivity for tighter process control. Any resist in the library is exposable at 365 and 405 nm — the two lines a maskless UV tool provides.

For a first run, favour a forgiving, well-documented positive resist and a modest film thickness. A resist with a wide process window and a full datasheet is far easier to get right than a specialised one, and you can move to the demanding process once the flow is familiar.

Prepare & coat

2 · Prepare and coat

Whatever ends up on the surface at coat time prints as a defect, so begin with a clean, dry substrate. A standard clean followed by a dehydration bake — and, for many resists on oxide, an HMDS adhesion prime — gives the resist a surface it will actually stick to through development. The processing guidelines cover why each of these matters.

Next, spin-coat the resist: a few drops are dispensed onto the substrate, which then spins so centrifugal force spreads a uniform film while solvent flashes off. Film thickness falls as spin speed rises, so you read your target thickness off the resist's spin curve — published on every recipe page — and set the speed to match. Read from a plotted point rather than guessing between two.

Spin coating always leaves a thicker rim — the edge bead — at the substrate's edge. It is removed right after coating so it can't flake and contaminate later steps.

Finally, soft-bake the coated film on a hotplate to drive out the casting solvent so the film is dry and stable before exposure. The exact temperature and time scale with thickness and are on the recipe page; the soft-bake section of the guidelines explains the balance — underbake leaves solvent that scums, overbake can desensitise the resist.

Sources: Cornell CNF — Photolithography Manual

Expose (no mask)

3 · Expose your design directly

This is the step a maskless tool reinvents. On a conventional aligner you would first pay for and wait on a photomask, then shine UV through it. A maskless (direct-write) system instead writes your design straight onto the resist — you load a layout file and the tool exposes the pattern point by point, with the dose set in software per layer. There is no mask, so a design change is a file change, not a new mask order. How that projection works — DMD patterning, direct write, grayscale — is covered in how maskless lithography works.

The quantity that matters is dose — the energy per unit area delivered to the film. Too little leaves scum and unresolved features; too much widens or rounds them. Each resist has a characteristic dose-to-clear, and datasheets usually quote a working dose at 365 nm; where the 405 nm value is unpublished it cannot be inferred, so the honest first move is a short dose array — a row of identical features exposed at stepped doses — to find what clears cleanly on your own tool. Doses live on the recipe pages; the exposure section of the guidelines explains the trade-offs.

Some resists then need a post-exposure bake before developing — essential for a chemically amplified resist, and a sidewall-smoothing step for a conventional DNQ resist. Check whether your resist calls for one.

Sources: MicroChemicals — Exposure of Photoresists

Develop

4 · Develop the pattern

Development dissolves the soluble regions and leaves your pattern behind — the exposed areas for a positive resist, the unexposed areas for a negative one. Most conventional resists develop in an aqueous, metal-ion-free base (TMAH); epoxy resists such as SU-8 are the exception and develop in an organic solvent. The developer, its strength and the time are all on the recipe page — don't improvise them.

Develop for the time the recipe specifies and no longer: under-development leaves scum in areas that should be clear, while over-development thins and rounds features. A gentle rinse and dry finishes the step. The development section of the guidelines covers puddle versus immersion and why the timing is tight.

Inspect

5 · Inspect the result

Before you commit the pattern to an etch, deposition or plating step, look at it under a microscope. A good result has crisp, fully-cleared features at the right dimension with clean sidewalls. Most first-run problems announce themselves as a recognisable defect that points straight back at a step above — and each is defined in the glossary.

Scumming — a residual film left where the resist should have cleared. It usually means underexposure, an underbaked film, or spent developer.
  • Scum or residue in areas that should be clear → underexposure or under-development. Increase dose or develop time within the recipe's window, or refresh the developer.
  • Features too small, or missing → over-development or over-dose. Back off the time or dose.
  • Ragged or lifting edges → an adhesion problem: revisit the clean, dehydration bake and HMDS prime.
  • Rounded or bridged features → over-exposure, or a soft-bake that was too hot or too long.
HW
A clean, near-vertical sidewall is what a straight etch-mask pattern should look like in cross-section — the target for a first positive-resist run.

A dose array from the exposure step earns its keep here: comparing the same feature across stepped doses shows you exactly which one clears cleanly, and that becomes your working dose. Don't expect a perfect first exposure — expect a good second one. Note what you changed, and iterate; because there's no mask, each iteration costs only a fresh coat.

FAQ

Common questions

Do I need a photomask for a maskless tool?

No. A maskless (direct-write) system exposes your design straight onto the resist from a layout file, so there is no photomask to design, order or pay for. That is the one step it changes; cleaning, coating, baking, developing and inspection are ordinary photolithography.

What exposure dose should I use for my first pattern?

It depends on the resist, the wavelength and the film thickness, so it isn't a single number this page can give. Start from the dose on the resist's datasheet-cited recipe page, and if the value at your wavelength is unpublished, run a short dose array — the same feature exposed at stepped doses — and use the lowest dose that clears cleanly.

My features didn't clear — what went wrong?

Residual film (scum) in areas that should be clear usually means underexposure or under-development: raise the dose or develop time within the recipe's window, or refresh the developer. Ragged or lifting edges instead point to adhesion — revisit the clean, dehydration bake and HMDS prime.

How thick a film will I get?

Film thickness is set by the resist and the spin speed, and falls as speed rises. Read your target thickness off the resist's spin curve — published on every recipe page — and set the spin speed to match, reading from a plotted point rather than interpolating between two.

Pattern it at 365 and 405 nm

NANYTE BEAM is a desktop maskless lithography system with software-selectable dual-wavelength exposure and 16-bit grayscale — no photomask, no mask cost, same-day iteration.

Talk to an engineer
Sources
  1. Cornell NanoScale Science & Technology Facility (CNF). Photolithography Techniques Manual. https://www.cnfusers.cornell.edu/sites/default/files/Area-Resources/PhotolithTechniquesManual20.pdf
  2. MicroChemicals GmbH. Exposure of Photoresists (application note). https://www.microchemicals.com/dokumente/application_notes/exposure_photoresist.pdf

General photolithography reference material, not a specification of any particular NANYTE BEAM configuration, and not a substitute for a resist’s own datasheet. Datasheet values are starting points; optimal parameters depend on your substrate, equipment and environment. Product names and trademarks belong to their respective owners; NANYTE is not affiliated with the manufacturers mentioned.